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How to Invest $100,000

At $100,000 the fee is the largest number you control and an advisor becomes a real option worth pricing.

A hundred thousand dollars is the first amount at which the cost of advice and the value of advice are both large enough to take seriously. It is also the amount at which the largest number in your plan stops being the market, which you do not control, and becomes the fee, which you do. One percent of $100,000 is $1,000 a year, charged in good years and bad. That is the decision this guide is mostly about, and it is worth more attention than the fund selection that usually gets it.

What actually changes at $100,000

Three things, and only the first is about investing. The fee becomes the dominant controllable cost. An adviser becomes available to you, because this is where minimums start to be met, which turns a theoretical option into a real one to price. And the things that have nothing to do with returns — beneficiaries, concentration, what happens if you are hit by a bus — start to matter more than the last tenth of a percent of allocation.

That last point is the one most people at this level get wrong, because it is not satisfying. Optimising the portfolio feels like progress. Naming a beneficiary does not. One of them is worth far more.

Step 1: Price the fee before you discuss anything else

Every conversation about advice should start with the same arithmetic, done in dollars. Percentages are designed to sound small and they succeed. Convert first.

Then ask what the fee is buying, and be specific. Portfolio construction and rebalancing are worth something and are also available for a quarter of a percent from an automated service. Tax planning, estate coordination, and talking somebody out of selling at the bottom are worth considerably more and are the things a percentage fee is actually for.

Step 2: Decide who manages it, with the numbers in front of you

This is the decision the whole guide has been building to, and there is no universally right answer — there is only the right answer for what you need and what it costs. What the questions below do is stop the comparison happening in percentages.

Step 3: Find the concentration you have not noticed

At six figures, the single most likely way to lose a damaging amount is not a bad fund. It is having far more riding on one thing than you realise, usually because it accumulated rather than because you chose it.

The most common version is employer stock, which is the worst kind of concentration because your income and your savings then depend on the same company being fine. Whatever the tax cost of unwinding it, price that against the cost of being wrong.

Step 4: The paperwork that outranks the portfolio

None of this improves returns and all of it matters more than the last tenth of a percent of allocation. It is also, at this level, usually undone.

The mistakes that cost the most at this size

Key Takeaways